Leave reality at the door and step into a lavish world of wonder at this uniquely enchanting escape, writes Rhonda Bannister.
There are resorts, and then there is JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay — a fantasy wrapped in a five-star embrace, where whimsy meets indulgence on the shores of Vietnam’s most alluring island, Phu Quoc.
Designed by legendary architect/designer/visionary Bill Bensley, this former (or rather, fictional) French university is an advanced class in storytelling, inviting guests into a world where history and imagination collide in brilliant technicolour. From the moment you step onto the resort’s lush grounds, you’re swept into a dreamscape where Bensley’s creativity and artistry have touched every hallway, every courtyard, every sun-drenched corner.
Our check-in is effortless, and we’re ready to jump into the fairytale, making a seamless transition into a captivating world where colonial-style architecture, pastel facades, and French- accented charm set the stage for what we know will be an unforgettable stay. As the story goes, Lamarck University was Phu Quoc Island’s intellectual and educational pinnacle, specialising in natural and other studies from the 1890s until it closed in 1940.
Mesmerised by the memorabilia supposedly left behind when the university closed, we wander the lobby halls, agog at the treasures surrounding us. Playful academia-inspired details — a ceiling lined with antique gramophones, a bell desk with over 45 bells, hundreds of old books and ledgers, stacks of old student suitcases, walls of sports trophies, framed photos of sports teams, equipment such as iron tennis rackets, dusty football boots and French gymnastics equipment from the early 1900s — create an atmosphere that is enchanting and believable. The attention to detail is astounding, as all these treasures are genuine and have been collected worldwide!
A tour by electric buggy from reception to our suite takes us along the main street, Rue de Lamarck. Lined with shophouses that include exquisite boutiques, the spa and gym, French & Co. casual cafe, Pink Pearl fine dining restaurant and Tempus Fugit restaurant, it’s a technicolour dream of blue, green, yellow, aqua, pink and mustard coloured colonial-style buildings, each representing a department on campus. There’s even a mini running track and football field!
The resort’s decadent array of rooms and suites are housed here, each with a balcony or terrace framing ocean views, marble-clad bathrooms with double sinks and rain showers, and floor-to-ceiling French windows — heaven on a stick! Larger groups and families can book one of the stand-alone villas with a private garden, pool and jacuzzi.
After settling into our suite, complete with private balcony overlooking stunning Khem Beach, the first order of business is a languid dip in the shimmering, shell-shaped main pool before indulging in a leisurely afternoon at Chanterelle – Spa by JW.
This time, we enter the world of Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, as Alice herself greets us. The staff, who usher us past the hair salon and steam and sauna rooms to a couple’s treatment room, is dressed like a deck of cards. So, I let myself fall down the rabbit hole, emerging 90 minutes later renewed, refreshed and ready for a sunset stroll along the soft white sands before dinner at Tempus Fugit, where Vietnamese, Japanese, and French flavours meet in a masterful medley of lip-smacking goodness.
Lunch the next day is a casual affair of light seafood at the breezy beachside restaurant, Red Rum, because tonight we’re dining like royalty. On the menu? A French Degustation dinner at Pink Pearl by Oliver E, billed as the divine former villa of Madame Pearl Collins, wife of the Dean at Lamarck University. First, there are pre-dinner cocktails at the Department of Chemistry Bar, a French Martini for me and a Dirty Martini for him, served by chemistry students in lab coats. Naturally.
Dinner is an opulent affair of four delectable courses served by ladies wearing pink flapper dresses straight out of The Great Gatsby. The decor is OTT gorgeous with an eye-catching Around the World in 80 Days globe swinging from the first-floor ceiling. Once again, we’re swept into a time warp when elegance, good taste and sophistication were fashionable — and that’s precisely what our evening is! I won’t go into detail about the menu (which was magnifique!) because Michelin-starred Chef Olivier Elzer is updating it as I write. You’ll have to visit to discover what the maestro has conjured up.
Our final morning beckons, so it’s time for a swim (we have three pools and an ocean to choose from) before a final walk along the pristine shore of Emerald Bay and a decadent breakfast at Tempus Fugit where the various food stations are laden with so much fabulous food, it’s hard not to overindulge.
Were we staying longer, we could have visited Kiss Bridge in Sunset Town to see the Symphony of the Sea, featuring jet ski and flyboard artists from around the world, culminating in a spectacular fireworks show. Or taken a ride in the world’s longest sea-crossing cable car at Hon Thom Nature Park. Or made our way north for a wander around Duong Dong town, the island’s administrative centre and home to touristy bars and restaurants.
Departing the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay isn’t just checking out — it’s leaving behind a world dreamed up by the inimitable Bill Bensley, where the ordinary is forgotten, and the extraordinary is simply a way of life. But as the resort fades into the distance, we know we will return to this whimsical wonderland, maybe even with family or friends — there are just too many stories to be told.
Getting here: JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay is located in the south of Phu Quoc island in southern Vietnam. The main gateway to the island is the Phu Quoc International Airport (PQC), which is just over ten kilometres from the resort. Alternatively, you can catch the ferry from mainland Vietnam (around 2-3 hours) and then take a short taxi ride to the resort.
Related reading: How to plan your dream honeymoon in Vietnam
