ROOM FOR TWO – AZERAI LA RESIDENCE, HUE

Reviewed by Tanya Joslin

Intro

Thirty years ago, my very first media trip included a stay at Amanjiwo in Borobudur, Indonesia. I’d never heard of Aman or Adrian Zecha before that – I was given a presidential suite, complete with a butler, and it changed everything I thought a hotel could be. So, like many who’ve experienced his properties, I’ve been a devoted Adrian Zecha fan ever since. When I heard he’d launched Azerai – his new ‘affordable luxury’ brand – I couldn’t wait to experience his philosophy without the Aman price tag.

We arrived at Azerai La Residence after 18 hours of travel, running on fumes and with only two hours’ sleep. The soft rain, the glimpses of colonial buildings through the car window, the Perfume River sliding into view – it all felt slightly surreal to finally be here. We were handed ginger and lemongrass tea with crystallised ginger on arrival, a small gesture yet unmistakably tied to the place; the kind of ritual that simply says “you’ve arrived”.

Overview

The original 1930 Art Deco mansion was once part of the residence of the French Resident Supérieur, and it still carries that Streamline Moderne posture: curved balconies, a domed rotunda, geometric screens catching the light. Two modern wings were added in 2005 under the guidance of French interior designer Brigitte Dumont de Chassart, framing the mansion without overwhelming it. They mirror the elegance of the original Art Deco building perfectly, yes, a touch more contemporary, but seamlessly integrated. When the property joined Adrian Zecha’s Azerai portfolio in 2019, it became an ideal expression of his vision: design integrity and sense of place, just more accessible than Aman.

Location

Azerai La Residence’s prime Perfume River location offers easy access to Hue’s main attractions like Thien Mu Pagoda and royal tombs, while maintaining a peaceful, self-contained atmosphere that invites relaxation.

Look & Feel

The original mansion retains its 1930s character: terrazzo flooring, deep timbers, period lighting and coral-toned armchairs tucked beneath soaring ceilings. The two newer wings mirror the mansion’s palette while offering a subtly more modern aesthetic – light-filled, balanced and understated. Wooden floors and terrazzo tiles provide continuity, and floor-to-ceiling glass doors blur the line between interior spaces and the surrounding tropical gardens. The saltwater pool stretches elegantly along the lawn, and the whole estate has that rare quality of feeling both well-connected and gently shielded from the world beyond.

Service

Service is warm, professional, and grounded in genuine hospitality. What sets it apart is how friendly the staff are – everybody greeting you with a beautiful, genuine smile while maintaining impeccable professionalism. That arrival ritual with ginger and lemongrass tea immediately signals a change in pace, and the team handles everything from tours to transfers with reassuring ease. Conversations reveal genuine pride in Hue’s heritage, and I was struck by how many staff have been with the hotel for years (even before Azerai took it over).

The GM, Phan Trong Minh, recently won the title of best hotel GM in Vietnam from Travel + Leisure, and he has created a team that genuinely wants to be here and to see guests having an incredible time in Hue.

Best Room for Two

Rooms start at Superior and climb all the way to the Resident Suite, which occupies the entire top floor of the original mansion with wraparound verandas and 360-degree views.

We stayed in a Le Jardin Suite in the newer wing: 46 square metres of balance and restraint. Dark wood floors, terrazzo tiles in the bathroom, three sets of floor-to-ceiling doors opening onto a balcony overlooking tropical gardens. A daybed for lazy afternoons, a desk I didn’t want to touch, and a bathtub so deep it practically requires a strategy to get in and out of, but was so appreciated at the end of each day.

The bed gave me two of the best nights’ sleep in a long time – the kind of restorative, heavy sleep that only comes after travel exhaustion collides with genuine comfort. It’s a divine space, and each little detail, from the loose-leaf tea with a gorgeous teapot to the curtain separating the bathroom from the bedroom, feels intentional.

But couples who love history should absolutely consider the Colonial rooms in the original mansion. The Colonial Junior Suite, Colonial Suite and Monument d’Égypte Suite all retain original ceramic tiles, decorative features and the architectural curves of the 1930s building. These rooms sit on the mansion’s historic two-storey structure (accessed via the grand staircase – there’s no lift, although you can get a lift up to one of the modern wings and connect from there), and staying there feels like stepping into another era entirely. The stories these walls could tell.

Food & Drink

Le Parfum is the hotel’s signature brasserie, blending French technique with the flavours of central Vietnam. We enjoyed a beautiful buffet breakfast there in the mornings, and I couldn’t help myself with their pho station (I had one at the airport as soon as I arrived and still can’t get enough of it in Vietnam!), along with a green juice, fresh fruit and nuts. The salted Vietnamese coffee is a revelation – this style started in Hue. It’s lovely, not too salty, and a perfect play on the sweet-and-salty combination you see in things like salted chocolate these days. There’s an egg station and even some bubbles for those who want to start the day a little celebratory.

But the dinner we enjoyed at Le Parfum – the Hue Royal Fusion degustation – deserves special focus: refined, delicate, and rooted in the city’s imperial culinary traditions. The pickled lotus root and green apple salad was crisp and bright, and the prawns were lovely. My spiced beef stew arrived fragrant with lemongrass, its sticky rice wrapped neatly in a banana leaf. But the dessert was the showstopper: a chocolate birdcage sheltering a spun-sugar nest so fine it looked impossibly fragile, cradling a glossy sphere with a passionfruit “yolk” inside. You feel almost criminal breaking something that beautiful. We did anyway, and it was worth it.

Spa & Wellness

Le Spa, winner of several World Luxury Spa Awards for Vietnam’s Best Luxury Boutique Spa, spans 545 square metres and features six stylishly appointed treatment rooms adorned with eclectic details from the 1930s art deco era.

My body needed rescuing after such a long trip, and Le Spa delivered. An hour-long Vietnamese massage undid every economy-seat contortion, the therapist methodically working through shoulders, spine, and calves that had long since given up on me.

Then, forty-five minutes of Tibetan singing bowl meditation – unique and unexpectedly powerful. I started it still mentally in Brisbane, ticking through work deadlines and end-of-year chaos. At some point, between the vibration of the bowls and complete physical surrender, I nodded off for five minutes without realising. When I surfaced, one word had settled in my mind: trust. It felt oddly fitting given how busy my mind was at the beginning of the meditation, though I couldn’t yet articulate why.

Beyond the treatment rooms, the saltwater pool stretches elegantly along the gardens, and there’s a Technogym-equipped fitness centre for early risers. Days slow naturally here.

Venturing Out

Hue’s most compelling sites sit within easy reach. The Imperial Citadel – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993 – dominates the opposite riverbank with its vast moat, fortified walls and lacquered ceremonial halls. It served as the political and cultural heart of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1805 until 1945, and remains Vietnam’s most evocative window into imperial life. Plan at least two hours to explore properly – the complex is enormous, with layers of gates, courtyards and palaces that reveal themselves slowly.

Thien Mu Pagoda, one of Vietnam’s most photographed religious sites, sits perched above a scenic bend in the river. The hotel’s riverside location makes it ideal for afternoon boat trips, a dinner cruise (offered through the hotel, although we didn’t have time to enjoy it), sunset strolls or guided heritage tours arranged through the concierge.

For dining beyond the hotel, book a table at Le Cercle Sportif, another gorgeous Art Deco building that once served as the French colonial sports and social club. The 1935 structure has been beautifully restored and sits right on the Perfume River with sweeping views. We had the degustation there, and it was superb – refined Vietnamese cuisine with the main course featuring a divine Wagyu steak from Japan – in a setting that matches La Residence’s architectural pedigree.

For something more casual, Madam Thu is a local favourite full of locals (always a good sign), serving authentic Hue specialties at very reasonable prices. It’s relaxed, affordable, and best washed down with a local Hue beer.

Couples Will Love

The feeling of staying somewhere with such history – the stories these walls could tell – and the location. The luxurious stay, from the incredibly comfortable beds to the divine spa. Lazy mornings on the balcony, long evening baths, sunset drinks on the terrace and the pleasure of returning to a beautifully preserved Art Deco sanctuary after days spent exploring Hue’s imperial treasures. Azerai La Residence is the perfect blend of heritage, modern comfort and riverside romance – a hotel that lingers with you long after you’ve left.

Discover more at Azerai La Residence’s website here.