Tanya Joslin checks into Uga Chena Huts, a high-end hideaway on Sri Lanka’s southern coast that blends safari thrills with barefoot luxury. Read the review.
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It’s not often you stumble across a place that makes you feel deliciously lost at the edge of the world, but Uga Chena Huts on Sri Lanka’s southern coast is exactly that. Tucked between jungle and sea on the fringe of Yala National Park, it offers the thrill of safari with the comforts of a boutique resort.
Set on a stunning, raw stretch of coastline where wilderness meets water, the lodge feels almost otherworldly. Everything moves at a slower rhythm here. The beach, wild and unswimmable, is only steps away, its crashing waves providing a dramatic, ever-present soundtrack.
We arrived after a three-hour drive from the historic Galle Fort, ready to stretch our legs. Chilled towels and cool drinks were waiting to welcome us, before we were shown to our villa: a safari-chic dome with thatched roofing and soft, organic curves inspired by the traditional chenas – seasonal farming shelters made from natural materials, used by local farmers to protect their crops.
A Luxurious Safari-Style Sanctuary
Each of the 18 cabins at Uga Chena Huts is its own sanctuary, and at roughly 150 square metres, they’re the largest private pool cabins in the region, offering a sense of space and seclusion that feels made for two. Think Out of Africa meets coastal Sri Lanka: dark timber interiors, rattan furniture, a glass wall opening to a private plunge pool, and the soft green canopy of jungle foliage beyond. The bathroom was spacious and luxurious, anchored by a deep soaking tub I came to know well – my go-to remedy for a stubborn head cold.
A curved loveseat faced the greenery outside, while a low timber table quickly became our favourite perch for sunlit morning coffees. The super-king bed, framed by a stacked timber-log headboard, was a subtle nod to safari tradition. With a thoughtfully stocked, all-inclusive minibar and an in-room coffee machine, even the early safari starts felt indulgent. The inclusion of six pieces of laundry returned daily was a small but blissful luxury – and a real godsend when living out of a suitcase across multiple stops in Sri Lanka.
The bathroom, just behind the sleeping area, felt like a retreat of its own, with twin vanities, a rainfall shower, and that soaking tub, which quickly became part of our daily wind-down ritual.
Into the Wild with Uga’s Expert Guides
The lodge offers morning and afternoon safaris, and we opted for an early start on our first full day. We met our guide, Vibu, at reception, where he had a modern safari vehicle waiting for us – complete with refreshments, binoculars and everything we might need for the next few hours.
Yala is known for having the highest leopard density in the world, and Vibu confirmed this with evident pride. While we didn’t see one (according to Vibu, the full moon the night before had likely encouraged night-time hunting, so they were now lying low), the safari experience delivered in every other way.
We saw elephants roaming freely, families of spotted deer grazing, and a surprise appearance by a mongoose. Birdlife was especially rich: jewel-bright little green bee-eaters, Sri Lanka’s flamboyant junglefowl, painted storks, and plenty of peacocks fanning their feathers in the early light. The landscape shifted constantly – rocky outcrops gave way to scrubland, then freshwater lagoons fringed with jungle.
Vibu’s knowledge made it all come alive. A graduate of South Africa’s Kruger Park program (a rare qualification in Sri Lanka), he shared stories of leopard behaviour, sloth bear sightings, and the challenges climate change has brought to the park. These weren’t just facts; they were insights born of experience.
A Taste of Sri Lanka (and Then Some)
The food at Uga Chena Huts would be impressive in any setting, but in the middle of the bush, it bordered on astonishing.
Breakfast was both global and local: from Spanish omelettes to kola kenda (a local herbal porridge), and a generous Captain’s Plate with bacon, eggs, mushrooms and toast. We leaned into the Sri Lankan dishes – fragrant, spicy, and deeply satisfying.
Dinners were multi-course affairs. One night, we dined on grilled lobster straight off the bush barbecue, alongside skewers of tuna, mutton and calamari, accompanied by pineapple, charred tomatoes and herbed butter. Another night we opened with Vietnamese pork noodle soup and spicy calamari, followed by slow-cooked lamb and pan-seared salmon. Portions were generous and beautifully plated, but never fussy.
Lunches were substantial three-course affairs, often beginning with a refreshing salad or flavourful starter, followed by grilled meats or seafood, and ending with something sweet and comforting. While the pacing was a little lighter than dinner, the food was no less generous or refined. On one occasion, we enjoyed a beautifully balanced tomato and herb salad, followed by a perfectly grilled chicken breast with roasted root vegetables, and finished with a mango sorbet. Meals were served al fresco, with a gentle breeze carrying in the scent of salt and spice. We often lingered at the table long after the final course, watching the light shift over the landscape.
Dining here isn’t just about the food – as extraordinary as it is! – it’s also about the setting. Meals are taken either on the deck of the restaurant, down on the sand, or inside in the air conditioning – we often chose the deck, where the sound of the ocean drifted in on the wind, mingling with birdsong. In the evenings, waves thundered against the shore while candles flickered on tabletops. The mood was equal parts relaxed and refined.
One of the most memorable moments of our stay came on the first evening: cocktail hour down by the water – it’s where we really started to ‘get’ the magic of Uga’s location. With toes in the sand, guests gathered for pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeuvres as the sun melted into the sea and the sky turned a soft pink, the wild coastline framing the moment with a cinematic grandeur.
As part of the all-inclusive experience, all meals and beverages are included at Uga, and the offerings are generous, featuring a well-curated list of wines, spirits and cocktails. We sampled the resort’s signature cocktail, a Yala Leopard, and our favourite afternoon sundowner, a classic G&T. Having everything included meant we never had to think twice about ordering another round or trying the local speciality. It was indulgence without hesitation – and we enjoyed every sip.
And then there were the extra little touches: the local orange juice with cracked pepper, brought out to ease my cold; the perfectly scrambled eggs, made just the way I like them; and the lemon, ginger and honey tea that I love. Small moments, yes, but they felt deeply attentive and sincere.
A Sunset to Remember
Our final evening included one of the most magical experiences of the trip: a sundowner safari that ended with a private picnic at a lake. On the way there, we stopped to watch elephants feeding calmly in the grass – a peaceful, grounding sight.
At the lake’s edge, Vibu and our driver laid out a luxurious spread: soft and hard cheeses, cakes, fruit, nuts, gin and tonic, wine, prosecco and, yes, more of that peppered orange juice. As we sat watching the scene unfold, a dominant male water buffalo waded slowly into the shallows, moving with a kind of regal weight. The sky turned gold, then pink, then lavender, reflecting off the water like a watercolour painting.
It was the kind of moment that reminded us how small we are in this universe – and how fortunate we were to share in the magic of this place.
A Commitment to Place
Uga Chena Huts isn’t just about comfort – it’s profoundly connected to its surroundings. The team sources ingredients from nearby fishing villages and small farms, creating a connection between guests and the people who call this coastline home. Behind the scenes, there’s a dedicated effort to tread lightly – from careful water use to rewilding projects – all guided by global sustainability standards, but grounded in something more personal: respect.
Why Couples Will Love It
There are safaris that thrill, and resorts that pamper. Uga Chena Huts manages to do both. It’s wild, but far from rugged. Luxurious, but not sterile. And it’s divinely romantic.
Whether you’re honeymooning, reconnecting, or simply seeking somewhere extraordinary to experience together, this is the kind of place that lingers long after you’ve left.
Find out more, explore rates, and start planning your own unforgettable Sri Lankan escape at Uga Chena Huts.
