Words: Kylie Mitchell-Smith
Some destinations call to you — and this time, Thailand’s call is unmistakably one of wellness. In desperate need of a little namaste, we hightail it out of Bangkok to one of the world’s oldest and most lauded health retreats: Chiva Som, nestled in the coastal village of Hua Hin, a few hours south of the city.
The private transfer sets the tone immediately — healthy snacks, chilled beverages, a blanket and a pillow — there’s nothing Chiva Som hasn’t thought of. Arriving in Hua Hin, locals gather at farmers’ markets beside a striking temple embedded into the mountainside, while holidaymakers stroll the dreamy beach below. Off the main street, the majestic gates of Chiva Som open onto a tropical garden paradise, alive with birdsong in every direction.
Celebrating thirty years, the retreat offers exceptional service, a world-class wellness program, and beautifully fresh produce sourced from the surrounding land and sea. Check-in is all about feeling welcome and at ease — after a gentle tour of the property, we take a siesta in our garden pavilion ahead of dinner.
Arriving on a Saturday proves a stroke of luck, as it’s ‘barbecue by the sea’ night. The freshest chargrilled seafood pairs perfectly with an array of tropical salads and fruits — think Lobster with Pomelo, Coconut and Thai Herbs. There’s a healthy dessert bar too (we swear we’re eating too much), though our health advisor assures us it’s all wonderfully in proportion, with a calorie count displayed on each dish. Two specialised restaurants complete the dining offering: Taste of Siam, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, overlooking the sea, and The Emerald Room, a fine-dining option serving a pescatarian menu and the signature ‘Siam Steamboat’.
The attention to detail for your health and happiness is immaculate — after all, Chiva Som means ‘Haven of Life’. We dive straight in, signing up for everything on offer across our four-day stay. Bouncing out of bed as the sun rises, we move through wellness talks, deluxe spa treatments and fitness classes, before taking long beach walks as the sun sets. Our first appointment is with Wellness Advisor Chee Wee, who is as intuitive as she is knowledgeable. Together we discuss all facets of mind, body and soul, and she carefully designs a plan for the entire stay — from Physiotherapy to Naturopathy to Traditional Thai Therapies. No health stone is left unturned.
There’s a wonderful array of accommodation to choose from: Ocean Premium and Ocean Deluxe rooms in the retreat’s main building overlook the glistening saltwater pool, while Patchouli Suites perched on the top floor offer stunning views of the Gulf of Thailand and the mountains beyond. We stay in one of the new Thai Garden Pavilions — complete with a private lounge, dining area and a meditation space overlooking the lagoon — drifting to sleep amongst the lush jungle surrounds.
Each day, our friendly butler Ra checks in faithfully, filling the fridge with healthy snacks, juices and tea tonics, lighting a candle, and offering to buggy us to dinner. Each evening we wander the retreat’s grounds, discovering something new at every turn: the indoor wellness spa with saltwater pools, jacuzzis, a reflexology rock walk, sauna and hammam steam room. The spa spaces are designed with deep wellness intent — there’s also a his-and-hers area with a cold plunge, steam, and sauna.
Curated treatments include sound and crystal healing, an interactive cooking class with the retreat chef, and a rotation of visiting therapists sharing their expertise from across the globe.
We check out of Chiva Som relaxed and truly rejuvenated — a final visit to the retreat’s on-site hair salon, and we look and feel completely renewed. We vow to return, but for now leave with a promise to carry the healthy habits home — knowing, as Chiva Som so beautifully reminds you, that the body is your temple.
Special Offer: June to September — Stay 5 nights, pay for only 4, plus complimentary round-trip transfers from Bangkok valued at $900 per person. Rates from $1,027 per person per day (twin share). chivasom.com
