Words: Kylie Mitchell-Smith
Canada’s iconic and luxurious Rocky Mountaineer ‘First Passage to the West’ scenic rail journey has been on our radar for quite some time – particularly with sons that live and work in Banff and Lake Louise. We recently found a window to jump on-board the Banff to Vancouver leg, which is an ideal way to explore the more secluded parts of Canada.
Spanning two days-across the picturesque Rockies to British Columbia-we board the charming train in Banff taking in breathtaking Lake Louise, along the way. The Rocky Mountaineer offers two types of service, the Silver Leaf, single level dome carriages and the upper-level Gold Leaf, with roof to ceiling windows, an outside viewing platform, and an impressive dining cart, both offer impeccable service to suit.
Slow travelling throughout the day we head towards our overnight destination of Kamloops, taking in the most breathtaking scenery along the way. Highlights on day one include the Continental Divide-a distinct water passage that separates the flowing river into the Atlantic Ocean. We cruise through Spiral Tunnels and marvel at the engineering genius, passing by Kicking Horse Canyon and Revel Stoke, regions that are as pretty in summer as they are with snowcapped peaks in winter.
Each day takes approximately 10-14 hours of travel time, pending on other trains and stoppages- we kick back in our comfortable leather recliners (complete with seat warmer) and enjoy the ride. The journey is as romantic as it is scenic, with plenty of time and space to be on your own or you can share a dining experience with the company of others. Breakfast and lunch are served in fine dining style in the lower level dining room, offering a daily menu peppered with local produce and a variety of Canadian wines.
After an epic 12-hour journey through the Rocky Mountains, we arrive in Kamloops as dusk is falling, to rest overnight in one of the towns many motels. The eager Mountaineer staff wave us in, as we disembark and catch a comfortable coach to the hotel. Upon arrival at the Wingate, the staff have already checked us in and magically our luggage appears in our room-it’s all part of the service. A hot shower awaits, and a deluxe bed has our name on it- turns out train travel and eating all day is rather exhausting.
Next day the early bird catches the train, so we swiftly head downstairs for a complimentary breakfast, board the coach to the station and begin our journey onward to Vancouver.
On-Board we are well fed and watered, with an open cocktail bar, house-made snacks and bottomless local coffee served directly to our seat.
The ‘First Passage to the West’ tour can be booked in reverse, from Vancouver to Banff or you can extend the journey to include a stopover in Jasper, with a feature to add the luxurious Fairmont Hotels to your itinerary.
Eager to catch a glimpse of wildlife along the way, we keep our eyes peeled and as luck would have it, we spot a brown bear with cubs, a cougar in the wild and soaring eagles- not always guaranteed. Whilst it’s a quiet journey inside the cabin (no wifi) the staff encourage you to ‘yell out’ when you see any wildlife-to alert fellow travellers.
As we head toward the Pacific Ocean and coastal town of Vancouver, we notice the dramatic change in scenery from the jaw dropping Rocky Mountains to the expansiveness of British Columbia- passing by the verdant hills of Fraser Valley, the supersized Thompson River and the cascades of Hell’s Gate.
Cruising through captivating landscapes, we are guided by knowledgeable staff, who remind us of the country’s rich cultural heritage. Train travelling through the heart of Canada in the comfort of your own reclining chair with windows to the sky and the lyrics of John Denver’s Rocky Mountain High in your ear, we feel at peace.
We cross the historical bridges into Vancouver as the sun sets over the city, the smell of summer is in the air as we disembark from the train. The friendly and attentive team from the Rocky Mountaineer are there to greet us and take us to our hotel.
As part of the journey, hotels are selected for your stay in Vancouver, we chose to stay at the iconic Pan Pacific Hotel, set high above the harbour with views across to the mountains beyond. Check in is seamless, with an upgrade to a high-level suite, it’s the perfect place to reflect on our epic rail adventure, before we embark on our flight to Australia the next day.
There is an array of itineraries to choose from, such as the aptly named ‘Passage to the Peaks’ or ‘Rainforest to Goldrush’ and ‘Journey through the Clouds’. Plans are afoot to launch a new route ‘Canyon Spirit’ into the USA in 2026, ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ taking in Salt Lake City, Denver, Colorado and Utah.
For over 35 years the Rocky Mountaineer has been exploring North America, with an expansion to include the heart of the American Southwest, it’s one of the most trusted and unique railway experiences on the planet – all about the journey and the destinations.
For further information on these ‘once in a lifetime’ remarkable experiences visit https://www.rockymountaineer.com/
