Words: Rhonda Bannister
A Sensory Introduction to India
The omnipresent sounds of hawkers and blaring horns assaulted our eardrums, and the aroma of pungent spices emanating from the many food carts and eateries infused the air with the smell of India. Our pedicab driver carried us through the streets of Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest markets in Delhi, past beautiful shops crammed with colourful saris, dazzling jewellery, exotic-looking shoes and bags, and so much more.
As an introduction to India, the commotion, chaos, colour, and smells of Old Delhi were as intoxicating as they were inspiring. We had arrived in Delhi the previous night, staying at The Imperial Hotel, a bastion of colonial elegance typical of the days of the Raj. It was here in the 1930s that Pandit Nehru, Mahatma Gandhi, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, and Lord Mountbatten met to discuss the partition of India and the creation of Pakistan. I wondered what pearls of wisdom we might have heard if only the walls could talk!
Colours and Chaos of Jodhpur
Rajasthan, a land of vibrant colour, regal palaces, and magnificent forts, was our next destination. The colours of Rajasthan are nowhere more evident than on the streets of the walled city of Jodhpur.
Related: The Ultimate 7-Day Itinerary for India’s Golden Triangle
Orange, yellow, lime green, cherry pink, red, turquoise, purple, and emerald green skirts and saris flowed from every female we passed as we made our way through the chaos of Jodhpur’s market streets. The narrow, winding streets created total confusion. I lost count of the number of times I jumped in fright when a horn blasted right at my shoulder.
Grateful for the retreat, we returned to our serene haven at RAAS, situated in the quieter northeastern quarter of the city. With its modern architectural lines juxtaposed with original stone buildings, RAAS was a surprise package. A rooftop bar offered dramatic views of Mehrangarh Fort, the city’s crowning glory.
Exploring Mehrangarh Fort
Sitting atop a 125-metre cliff, the fort’s foundations were laid in 1459 by Maharajah Rao Jodha. Rudyard Kipling described it as “The work of angels, fairies and giants… built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun.” Leave a few hours to wander its cobbled streets, watch traditional dancers, and visit the museum to uncover the stories of Jodhpur’s rich past.
Luxury Tented Bliss at RAAS Chhatrasagar
Next, we drove three hours southeast to RAAS Chhatrasagar, a luxury tented camp set above a waterway. Forget camping – this was glamping with a capital G. Sixteen luxury tents, spacious and impeccably designed, overlooked the water, each with air-conditioning and heating.
Only four other guests were staying that night. Over sundowners, we bonded with a couple from Washington on an eight-week sojourn through India and a British couple celebrating a surprise birthday getaway. The long, leisurely dinner that followed, with delicious cuisine and surprisingly good Indian wine, was a tonic for the soul.
The Road to Chanoud Garh
Driving in India is not for the faint-hearted. On the multi-lane highway to Chanoud, three hours away, we darted between heavily loaded trucks, motorbikes carrying entire families, herds of goats, and wandering cows.
Arriving in the village, we were greeted by a vibrant celebration. Garlands of marigolds and feathered necklaces were showered upon us as the smiling locals swarmed around, eager to exchange greetings.
Chanoud Garh is a magnificent heritage hotel with suites as spacious as apartments, furnished with historic detail. The Singhji family, 14th-generation owners, restored the palace with love and dedication, reconnecting with their village roots. Strolling through the village with the retired headmaster, we experienced the warmth and pride of the community.
Regal Retreat at RAAS Devigarh
Our next journey took us four hours through rural Rajasthan to RAAS Devigarh, an 18th-century hilltop palace transformed into a luxurious five-star hotel. Perched high above the Aravali mountains, the palace offers 360-degree views of the lush surroundings.
It took over 700 labourers and 15 years to restore the palace. Today, it boasts massive, contemporary suites with marble interiors, semi-precious stone inlays, and local handicrafts. Staying here was nothing short of extraordinary.
The Romance of Udaipur
A short 40-minute drive from Devigarh brought us to Udaipur, a city I had dreamed of visiting. Seeing the iconic white marble Taj Lake Palace Hotel floating on Lake Pichola gave me goosebumps.
The cobbled streets of the old city led us to the City Palace, a sprawling complex of eleven palaces founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II. With its setting around artificial lakes and its elegant architecture, Udaipur is often called the “Venice of the East.” A leisurely boat ride on Lake Pichola provided the best views of the city’s grandeur.
Read more: Udaipur, a Journey Through India’s Most Romantic City
From the chaos of Old Delhi and Jodhpur to the gentle refinement of rural Rajasthan and the romance of Udaipur, our journey through India was unforgettable. Experiencing the country’s luxurious accommodations, warm hospitality, and vibrant culture has left us yearning to return and explore more of this incredible land.
Photos: Except where stated, all photos are from Dan Bannister who can be found at @Silvernomads_ on Instagram
Rhonda Bannister
Rhonda co-founded Holidays for Couples more than 30 years ago, establishing it as Australia’s leading voice in romance travel. Now retired from day-to-day operations, she continues as our editor-at-large, travelling widely and reporting with a special focus on experiences that resonate with couples over 60.
