Words: Tanya Joslin. Photography, except where noted: Tony Joslin
Hobart’s waterfront lay quiet under overcast skies, the cool morning air tinged with the briny scent of the sea. Our group of nine gathered at Brooke Street Pier, waiting to board the boat that would take us to the Tasman Peninsula and the start of our wilderness adventure. Behind us, the city’s sandstone warehouses, silent witnesses to centuries of maritime history, stood stoic and weathered, their facades muted by days of rain.
For the next three days, we would leave the humdrum of daily life behind, immersing ourselves in the rugged beauty of the Tasman Peninsula on Tasmania’s southeast coast. My husband, the hiker and camper of the family, thrives on adventure, while I’m more drawn to the indulgence of five-star comforts. The Three Capes Long Weekend with the Tasmanian Walking Company promised the perfect compromise: fresh-air thrills for him, a dose of luxury for me, and, most importantly, quality time together.
Our guides, Briany and Sonnie, had already outlined what lay ahead — a seamless blend of eco-luxe comfort and spirit, chef-prepared meals, and guided walks into raw, untamed natural landscapes. Briany, a true Tasmanian at heart, had once dreamed of acting but returned home during the pandemic and discovered her true calling as a guide. Originally from the mainland, Sonnie came to Tasmania for a marine-focused master’s degree and, like Briany, fell in love with the island’s natural beauty. We immediately sensed they’d be the perfect hosts for our adventure, and they were.
Read more: Things for Couples to Do in Hobart
DAY ONE: A TASTE OF THE WILD
After a boat trip that allowed us to drink in Tasmania’s rugged beauty from the water, we finally began our hike. Stepping onto the Remarkable Cave trailhead, the air was thick with salt and the promise of rain. We followed a winding path through coastal heath for a couple of hours, with Briany sharing insights into the area’s topography and history
We stopped briefly above Crescent Bay, where those with energy left to spare climbed Mount Brown for sweeping views of Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, and Tasman Island. From there, we descended into Crescent Bay where we had the beach to ourselves — just us and the wild, windswept expanse of sand. Briany then led us along a private trail to Tasman Camp, a secluded off-grid retreat perched above the ocean, with Cape Pillar dominating the horizon.
Nestled on the edge of the world, the eco-camp’s seven tents offered a truly intimate connection with nature. Designed to be fully removable, they were the epitome of eco-consciousness, leaving no trace behind.
Our ‘tent’ was anything but rustic and perfect for couples. Inside, we found a large, comfortable double bed, thick doonas, fresh towels and a jacket stand — little touches that made the remote location feel surprisingly cosy. Outside, chairs allowed us to take in the incredible view in peace.
The lodge, the heart of the camp, was where we gathered for meals and drinks — Sonnie had driven the van here with our luggage while we were hiking. With a kitchen, lounge, and a long dining table, it was the perfect place to relax and unwind. The huge glass walls let us soak in panoramic views of the coastline, while the comfy couches by the windows were just right for chilling with a book or simply enjoying the stunning scenery.
After a refreshing (hot!) rainwater shower, we met in the lodge for glasses of Jansz Tasmania bubbles and a spread of local cheeses and freshly shucked oysters — so fresh that even I (not usually an oyster lover) found them delicious!
That night, a powerful storm rolled in. The wind howled, and rain lashed the camp for hours. Cocooned in our luxury tent, I couldn’t help but feel thankful we weren’t braving these elements in a regular tent on the trail.
DAY TWO: CAPE RAOUL’S COASTAL WONDERS
We awoke to a transformed world. The storm had passed, and the morning dawned calm and bright, with birdsong filling the air. Briany and Sonnie had set out coffee and tea for early risers before breakfast was served at 7 am.
Day Two promised the trip’s longest walk — a 5–6-hour return trek to Cape Raoul. Though more demanding than the other days, it was designed for enjoyment rather than exertion, with a steady pace and plenty of opportunities to pause and take in the dramatic coastal views.
The trail meandered through towering eucalypt forests, where the scent of damp leaves filled the air and sunlight danced on the bark. Along the way, the landscape revealed glimpses of the Tasman Sea, each new vantage point more striking than the last.
At one lookout, we paused, transfixed by the horizon stretching endlessly before us, with Cape Raoul’s dramatic headland etched against the sky. It was a moment to breathe deeply and feel the quiet power of the wilderness. Each turn seemed to bring a new perspective, the kind that begged for a moment to stop and simply take it all in.
After a couple of hours, the track brought us to Cape Raoul, a dramatic headland where dolerite columns plunged into the sea. The scale of the cliffs was humbling, and the scene was alive with the distant calls of seals echoing from the rocks far below. It was the kind of moment that made the effort of the hike — however small it seemed in hindsight — entirely worthwhile.
Back at camp, a hot shower never felt so good. By the time we gathered in the lodge, the sun was sinking, and glasses of Jansz were already being poured. A platter of local cheeses made the rounds, quickly devoured as the smell of Tasmanian meats grilling on the barbecue drifted in from outside. Dinner was a proper feast: fresh salads, sizzling steaks, red wine and bubbles, and lots of laughter.
DAY THREE: FROM TASMAN ARCH TO WATERFALL BLUFF
The final day dawned with another hearty breakfast before the last leg of our adventure. Starting at Tasman Arch, we followed coastal tracks lined with vibrant flora and sedimentary rock formations, winding our way towards Waterfall Bay
We paused briefly at Devil’s Kitchen, a collapsed sea cave with jagged walls shaped by centuries of crashing waves, before continuing to Patersons Arch — a quieter spot with a rocky floor reminiscent of another of the region’s geological phenomena, the Tessellated Pavement.
The day’s last stop was Waterfall Bay Lookout, where cliffs seemed to tumble into the ocean. Though the waterfall’s flow was reduced due to dry conditions, the view — green peaks plunging into sapphire waters — was still spellbinding. The waves below crashed rhythmically, their energy blending with the whispering wind to create a sense of calm. For those wanting more, the trail continued to Waterfall Bluff, offering even more breathtaking coastal views.
Our journey concluded at Bangor Vineyard, one of the most southerly vineyards in Tasmania, where we sampled cool-climate wines including their award-winning Captain Spotswood Pinot Noir. These were paired with local cheeses — creamy, tangy, and rich, like an extension of the landscape. Listening to stories of Bangor’s family-run roots and deep connection to the land added depth to this delicious experience, topped off by lunch at Bangor’s lovely restaurant.
ECO-LUXE AND LOCALLY SOURCED
The Three Capes Long Weekend’s eco-conscious approach was a quiet yet profound backdrop to the experience. The camp left behind no permanent trace — grey water was carefully removed, and the structures could be dismantled without a hint of disruption to the land. Each meal reflected Tasmania’s vibrant produce: oysters freshly harvested from Dunalley, tangy Bream Creek Dairy cheeses, and sparkling wines that captured the island’s cool climate. Even the ceramic plates we used were crafted by a local artisan, a subtle but meaningful nod to the region’s creative soul.
As we returned to Hobart, the hum of the city felt gentler, the air somehow softer. The Three Capes Long Weekend had been more than an escape; it was a quiet awakening — a chance to reconnect with nature’s vastness and, in doing so, rediscover something essential within ourselves. This journey, both grounding and indulgent, is one I’ll carry with me, woven into the memories of a place where wilderness and luxury meet.
Discover more at www.taswalkingco.com.au
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